Wednesday, January 05, 2005


cathedral in sofia, belgrade

into albania from the border with macedonia

view from the taxi. he had to stop to put air in the tires - discouraging sign

the mall at short hills, albania

cheese market in albania

skopje, macedonia

fluid architecture in skopje city center

a revolutionary in traditional dress

prizren, kosovo

prizren, kosovo

the albanian eagle stares down the ottoman boar

Abdul Frasheri, a leader of the Albanian independence movement against the Ottoman Empire, kisses his wife and child goodbye. He heads to Uzin, only to be killed by the Ottomans.

kosovar shot-out to rock, roll, and rap

shopgirl in Kosovo, with beautiful, natural red hair. i apologize for sullying the picture with my mug.

preserved mosque in kosovo

graffiti in belgrade

belgrade built the largest cathedral in eastern europe, based on the aya sofia in istanbul. the inside is unfinished.

belgrade museum of modern art

the kiss, modern indian art, in the belgrade museum of modern art

a modern art gallery in belgrade and a starving artist begging for food. lady there told us that this building, originally intended to house Tito's collection of 200,000 gifts and cultural artifacts, will cover as this modern art museum until the politicos in serbia decide that Tito can once again be recognized as the pan-yugoslavist he was. by the way, conspiracy has it that a new pentagon is being built in the backyard, aimed at China.

A flintlock pistol and a trombone blunderbuss, given to Tito by Iraq in 1979, the year Saddam solidified his power.


chess in the park

belgrade from the citadel

subverting the narrative

spooky man gazing at young ice-skaters. i'll be kind and call him security.

ice skating rink against the citadel walls in belgrade

18th century torah from Livorno in the Belgrade Jewish Historical Museum

our burek salesladies in belgrade. all rights reserved.

the main promenade in belgrade, serbia

back in the city victorious

After a whirlwind tour of Serbia, Kosovo, Macedonia, Albania, and Bulgaria, I'm back in Cairo. Dear readers, many of you have been sending emails asking for more of the daily rod, and I abide.

Cairo is chilly upon my return, but not as cold as Eastern Europe. I welcomed the cold air, clean air in my lungs after two months in dusty Cairo, but it's nice not to bundle up everytime I step outside. At first it was a bit depressing coming back to Cairo. The cities of Eastern Europe are clean and beautiful, the food wonderful, and the girls unbelievable. Cairo was quite a contrast, and I wondered briefly why I decided to focus on studying the Middle East. Stll not too late to become a slavophile, eh? One day later, however, and I regret not a moment of that study. Cairo bustles, it moves, and it lives like no other city I've experienced. There's life here. Walking back from dinner last night at 10pm and the street was busy with shops and kids and men smoking sheesha and drinking tea and talking and staring and playing games and reading newspapers and watching soccer matches. There's a kinship here among people that I didn't feel in Eastern Europe. Those cities have become proper and elegant, but with that almost sterile. And Cairenes are some of the nicest people I've encountered. I can't say the same about strangers on the street in Sofia, who mostly ran when we were just asking for directions. I don't know, perhaps I'm very intimidating.

The Embassy isn't very busy for me at the moment, and I'm gearing up for my next trip. Today I got shot full of Yellow Fever serum, and began taking my anti-malarials. Kenya looks to be a tour of beaches and big game - no hunting of course, just photographing. Hope you enjoy the above pictures.